A BOOK FOR ALL SEASONS...........

This is not just another cookbook by just another chef. This is a book that stirs our senses of childhood and satisfying   nostalgia of our kitchen memories. They are indelibly tied to the seasons  we live through. A spring with the promise and celebration of new life and winters end. Summer's celebration of the outdoors and our own connection to the produce of the earth. Fall's great symbolism of death and grand harvests to store and sustain through winters' nourishing and revitalizing sleep.

As Pino writes, we can recall our own memories of entering a kitchen on a fall afternoon and smelling the apples caramelizing on the bottom of the oven. Of coming out of winter's raw chill and being surrounded by a hearty winters' soup steam from the stovetop. The smell of an Easter leg of lamb with roasted onions and new potatoes. Summer's ripe produce and harvested seafood grilling on a fire.

Simply Tuscan offers menus that are in sync with the seasons. In summer, meals move outdoors, and Pino offers "A Summer Grilling and Barbecue Buffet", "Summer Night Seafood Extravaganza", and table setting tips that make entertaining a success. Later in the year, Luongo incorporates his "favorite delicacy on the planet", truffles, into the menu. With " Fall's First Truffle Dinner", he evokes Tuscany at the height of it's natural cycle. When winter descends, he supplies irresistable Christmas, New Year's, and Valentine's Day menus with dishes like Red Snapper in Salt Crust, Crab Meat Ravioli in Ginger-Scented Vegetable Broth, and Chocolate Amaretti Custard.

This makes a great addition to to anyone's cookbook collection. The idea of centering it around the seasons is wonderful and the book is filled with great pictures of dishes and people. You will also love the small pen and watercolor sketches of everyday life and things in Tuscany. Pino says in the beginning he wants to convert us to Tuscanism, a way of life where cooking and eating have a protocol all their own. So, if you can't get there, get this book and get nostalgic!

Pino Luongo grew up in Tuscany and has lived in America for twenty years. He opened Il Cantinori in NYC in 1983 and now has ten restaurants including Tuscan Square in Rockefeller Center in NYC. He has written two other books, Fish Talk, and A Tuscan in the Kitchen.

FAVA BEAN, ARTICHOKE, AND ASPARAGUS FRICASSEE

"In Tuscany, the summer fields are dotted with red poppies and white daisies so brilliant that you can actually see there colors in the moonlight."-Pino Luongo

CACCIUCCO WITH FETTUNTA
 

1/2C olive oil  4 cloves garlic chopped  24 mussels  24 small clams  1C white wine  ¾ pound white fish fillets in chunks  8 large shrimp  salt and pepper  1C canned peeled tomatoes  4T chopped italian parsley

In a large casserole, saute onions and garlic Add clams and mussels and add white wine  Reduce by half and add fish then shrimp  Heat on high, salt and pepper, Add the tomatoes and parsley  When it bubbles, add 1/2C cold water to stop the cooking  Bring back to a simmer for 10 minutes

FETTUNTA

Thick slices crusty Italian bread 4 cloves garlic slightly smashed olive oil Salt

Toast the bread and rub the garlic on the slices Sprinkle with olive oil and salt

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP W/ AMARETTI COOKIES AND BLACK TRUFFLES

butternut squash, peeled and seeded  cut into 1/2 inch pieces 4T extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion chopped salt and pepper 12 amaretti cookies crumbled to powder 1 t grated nutmeg 1/2C grated fresh parmesan cheese 1 ounce black truffle, shaved

In a large casserole, saute the onion and add the squash, S&P After 5 minutes, cover with water and cook until squash is soft Process soup in blender or processor and put back in casserole Add 3/4 of the cookies and nutmeg, cook for 5 minutes Remove from heat and add the cheese Pour into bowls and garnish each with the truffle and remaining cookie

BRAISED QUAIL and CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS with SOFT POLENTA
 

4 quail breastbones removed  4 bay leaves  4 slices pancetta  4T extra virgin olive oil  1/2C dry white wine  1/2C chicken stock  16 whole shallots, peeled and blanched for 30 seconds

S&P each quail inside and out, place bay leaf inside each, wrap each quail with pancetta slice, secure with a toothpick In a large casserole, brown the quail in olive oil Add the wine and reduce, then add chicken stock and shallots Cover the casserole and put in preheated 400 degree oven After 5 minutes, remove the cover and cook for 5 more minutes Remove the quail and brown the shallots on the stove top

POLENTA
 

4.5C water salt to taste 1C polenta 1T extra virgin olive oil

Bring salted water to a boil Reduce heat add polenta slowly beating with a whisk Cook 5 minutes and add olive oil and salt to taste Try adding some shavings of parmesan off the heat